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Shirtmaking Lately: McCall’s 6613 and Vogue 8772

July 3, 2015

Red Knits_Light Chambray ShirtI’ve had quite the little shirtmaking operation going this summer. I’ve already posted about my bicycle birthday blouse, and today I have two more shirts to share: one for me, and one for Steve.
Red Knits_Light Chambray ShirtIt took a long time to find the perfect fit for Steve’s shirt, but once we finally did, it was completely perfect. I haven’t made a single change to McCall’s 6613 since the first version I made last fall. This time, Steve chose a lightweight Robert Kaufman chambray for summer which, as you can see in the top photo, wrinkles very easily–those wrinkles are just from him bending down to tie his shoe! Luckily, that’s about as bad as it gets because the shirt didn’t seem be any worse off when he came home from work.
Red Knits_Light Chambray ShirtFor this version, Steve asked for a rounded corner pocket with a button but no flap. I guess he likes to have a button on his pocket even if he doesn’t use it.
Red Knits_Light Chambray ShirtSpeaking of buttons, Steve loves button down collars and always asks for buttons not only on the front collar points, but also in the middle of the back. Apparently these buttons are key for keeping one’s bow tie in place–who knew?
Red Knits_Light Chambray ShirtAlthough I’m not doing much that’s new on these shirts, I am slowly but surely getting better at shirtmaking. My technique is getting more precise, and they are taking a little less time to sew each time.
Red Knits_Light Chambray ShirtI plan to sew up at least one more shirt for Steve this summer, and hopefully I’ll be able to assemble it before our trip to visit my parents. Much as I love my sewing machine, its 3-step buttonholes aren’t much fun. I’d love to zip through them on Mom’s machine.
Red Knits_Polka Dot BlouseI’m afraid the blouse I made for myself looks way better in person than it does in these photos. Sorry!

This is another version–my third, actually–of Vogue 8772. For these new versions, I made a few adjustments based on last year’s wearable muslin. I took a small full bust adjustment to keep the button band from gaping, and I shortened the sleeves by 1″. I think I could actually stand to lose a little more length on the sleeves, so I may give that a try next time.
Red Knits_Polka Dot BlouseIn the back, I took a swayback adjustment. This is becoming my most important standard adjustment by far, and I’m learning to make it on all sorts of different backs.
Red Knits_Polka Dot Blouse
Since I’ve been working on my shirtmaking skills, I’ve been dissatisfied with my collar and stand insertion. I just didn’t feel like I could get a professional finish in this area despite trying many different techniques. Well, I think I’ve found The One. Tasia recently posted a series of photo tutorials on Sewaholic based on the techniques in David Coffin’s Shirtmaking, and this presentation seems to have worked for me better than the illustrations in the original book. My collar stands aren’t perfect yet, but they are so much better than they were. A few more shirts, and I think I’ll have it down!

Thank you all so much for your kind words on my Sutton Blouse. I’m excited to advance to Round 2 of the Super Online Sewing Match–we’re making Christine Haynes’ Marianne dress!

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3 Comments leave one →
  1. Red's Mom permalink
    July 3, 2015 11:11 pm

    Yours is nice, but I’ve got to go with Steve’s shirt as the winner of this round!

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